Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Stuck in Sweden, Wishing I was back in France ...

Okay, that title is not 100% true ... I'm stuck HERE (where it's minus 10 and snowing lightly) not Malmo, Sweden (where it's a balmy plus 8 and threatening light rain).  My imagination doesn't seem to be up to this imaginary vacation this week.  One Swedish mitten still needs a thumb.
 However, I did create some yummy Swedish pancakes (which I ate with homemade cranberry sauce and whipped cream), and this lavender pillow.
Reminds me of summertime and my (imaginary) visit to the lavender fields of Provence in Southern France ...

Where do YOU wish you were right now???

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Sweden

Now, where was I???  My plans for an imaginary European vacation came to an abrupt halt in France ... Provence was really wonderful! ... not that many weeks into my trip.  I was knitting these "French Lavender" socks.

That was August.  Some health/medical kinda stuff happened.  Took a while to get moving again.  The French Lavender socks are currently UFOs in my knitting basket.  I hope to return to Provence (home of many beautiful lavender fields and historical lavender distilleries) next year ... and will finish these socks at that time!

It was difficult to choose a re-starting point, so I got out my trusty atlas, did the "close your eyes and point" routine, and my finger landed on Copenhagen.  However, I didn't have any suitable wool on hand to knit the socks from that location, so decided to hit the road.  And a long road it was too ... or at least a very long bridge ... check it out at http://www.copenhagen.com/thecity/the_bridge/welcome.asp?Menu=Tourism#
 (there's a "Virtual Tour" on this page so you can get a really good perspective of the structure).

That led me to the Swedish city of Malmo ... and a chance to catch up with a former roommate from university days!  (Go to www.youtube.com and check out "Discover Malmo" for a quick look at the city.)  Of course, I had to tackle some Swedish knitting, aided by this delightful book, "Swedish Handknits: a collection of heirloom designs" by Sue Flanders and Janine Kobel ... along with some cream and red Cascade Yarns Superwash Sport.
Since winter had arrived at home (it was minus 16 when I chose this yarn ... sometimes reality just won't stay out of my imaginary European vacation!), I decided to take a break from knitting socks and try some Swedish mittens.  In the photo below, the LEFT mitten shows the design on the front/top of hand, and the RIGHT mitten shows the design from the back or palm.
Have you ever used a yarn bowl?  What a great way to work with more than one colour!  There's a swirly hole on one side of the bowl for one yarn ...
... and a couple of holes on the other side of the bowl for one or two different yarns ...
The bowl is good sturdy pottery and heavy enough to stay where you put it, either on the table or on the floor beside you, while you work!  Brilliant idea!  (You can see the bottom of the thumb shaping in the photo above ... the row of yellow waste yarn will come out when I pick up the stitches to knit the thumb there.)

Shhhh!  Don't tell anyone ... we wouldn't want an international incident! ... I'm actually using a mitten pattern from this book ... "Norwegian Handknits: heirloom designs from Vesterheim Museum" by the same authors.


They tell me that Norway and Sweden (being next door neighbours and all) share many traditional weaving and knitting patterns, including flowers/roses and stars.  Perhaps the Swedish will forgive me when I point out the clearly Swedish Yule Goats on the cuffs of my mittens?

Of course, there are always distractions.  Miss Boots has been quite distracted by a new toy mouse ...
 ... and I have found myself distracted this past week by some luxurious hand-spun Angora that is hand-dyed a beautiful amethyst colour (this photo doesn't do the colour true justice)!
 But a quick scarf on size 6.0 mm knit needles is a very brief distraction ... before this evening is over, I will be back at the Swedish mittens as both are ready for thumbs ...

... and tomorrow, I shall be exploring the Swedish connection between yellow dried peas and coarse mustard.  Hmmm ... I wonder what that could be ......

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Week 2 post ...

... a bit late ... I have discovered that Spain is a fascinating country.  Actually, I have discovered that just one little corner of Spain is fascinating ... so fascinating that I've spent much too much time exploring there and if I keep up that rate of "travel", this vacation is going to take YEARS!  So here's a synopsis of my travels between July 13th and 20th ...


When I last posted, I was enjoying a retreat just outside of Sevilla.  Refreshed from that break, I headed 97 kilometres south to JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA.
You can check out this lovely little city at:

The name 'Jerez' comes from the Moorish name 'Xeres', and yes, that translates to the English word 'sherry'.  There are a half million barrels of sherry maturing in underground cellars in and around Jerez de la Frontera at any given time!  Naturally, a good activity to enjoy in Jerez de la Frontera is a bodega (winery) tour.  I chose the home of Tio Pepe, the Bodega Gonzales Byass for my tour, which cost about 15 Euros, and enjoyed some delicious tapas with my tasting.  You can check out this winery at:

NOTE: the above is a fabulous website!  If a prize were to be given for a great site, this one deserves first place.  Don't be put off by their request for your birthdate ... it's well worth the visit!


Sherry has a long and fascinating history.  The British developed a taste for Jerez de la Frontera sherry back in the 1500s when their Sir Francis Drake seized 3,000 barrels of the stuff.  No doubt the Spanish Armada ... the intended recipients of the 3,000 barrels ... were not impressed.  The Tio Pepe brand of sherry was established in 1849.  Tio Pepe was a real person, one Jose Angel, uncle of the Bodega Gonzales Byass founder Manual Maria Gonzales Angel.  Pepe is a Spanish nickname for Jose.

With a tidbit of information like that, naturally I had to get acquainted with Tio Pepe!  My personal experience with sherry had been limited to a distasteful experience one spring in San Francisco where the downtown hotel management treated their guests to a complimentary sherry (or two ... or three ...) just before opening their restaurant for dinner service.  Nice hotel management ... not so nice sherry.  I found it way too sweet.  I learned there is a variety, ranging from cream sherry (which is aromatic and sweet and a dark mahogany in colour ... no doubt the type I tippled in San Francisco) to fino sherry (which is very dry and pale golden in colour).  Spaniards in that region prefer the fino and drink it icy cold with their tapas.


Now ... let me tell you something about sherry and tapas.  Take a few prawns, brush them with a bit of garlic-infused olive oil, fry them quickly, then sprinkle them with a pinch of coarse sea salt.  Then take a glass of ice cold Tio Pepe fino sherry.  Heavenly!!!
 It's such a heavenly combo that you will soon be saying "hey!  who finished my prawns and sherry?"
The only sensible answer to that question is to fry up some nice country bread in the remaining garlicky-prawny olive oil, sprinkle with another pinch of coarse sea salt, and munch on that while enjoying a second glass of icy cold Tio Pepe fino sherry!
 However ... I do not recommend knitting after that second glass ...
"How many stitches was that?
Wait ... how many knitting needles do I have?"
Jerez de la Frontera is also the home of flamenco.  I visited a fabulous flamenco museum located in a 15th century building.  You can check it out at:

Flamenco music is probably a fusion of gypsy music from Northern Africa combined with medieval Muslim music found in Andalucia.  While there is modern flamenco music today that incorporates blues, jazz, Portuguese fado, Moroccan beats, even pop and rap, the REAL flamenco is cante jondo, or 'deep song', the anguish of marginalized people.  It is duende, or passion, and a talented flamenco singer, dancer or guitarist will leave your hair standing on end from the depth of that passion!  The Spanish poet, Federico Garcia Lorca, wrote:


"La guitarra, hace llorar a los suenos.
Ell sollozo de las almas perdidas, se escapa por su boca redonda.
Y como la tarantula teje una gran estrella para cazar suspiros,
que flotan en su negro aljibe de madera."

 Roughly translated:

"The guitar, it makes dreams cry.
The sob of lost souls escapes its round mouth.
And as the Tarantula weaves a great star to hunt sighs,
you float in its black cistern of wood."
Flamenco is said to be the anguish of marginalized people.  To get a wee sample of that raw anguish, go to http://www.youtube.com/ and check out Spanish Gypsy Flamenco Song.  There are plenty of flamenco examples on Youtube, but you might want to have a look at the city of Jerez de la Frontera and the traditional flamenco scene there by going to http://www.youtube.com/ and checking out Ciudad del Flamenco (Jerez de la Frontera).

Jerez de la Frontera is also the home of Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre, the Royal Andzlucian Equestrian School.  This school is located on the grounds of a 19th century palace.  You can check them out at:

For around 25 Euros, you can enjoy the show "Como Bailan los Caballos Andaluces" (Dancing Andalucian Horses).  These beautiful white horses are a cross between native Andalusian workhorses and Arabians.  Riders wearing 18th century riding costumes make dressage and jumping look like an art form.


Between horses, sherry, tapas and flamenco, I could have stayed in Jerez de la Frontera, but my goal for the week was to reach the coast by July 16 for feast of la Virgen del Carmen (feast of the Virgin Mary of Mount Carmel), the patron saint of Cadiz and many coastal Spanish communities, as well as the patron saint of mariners, fishermen, and scuba divers.  Early in the evening, the statue of la Virgen del Carmen is carried out of the cathedral on a beautifully decorated platform, and paraded through the streets and accompanied by marching bands.  She is also taken for a voyage around the bay on a flower-adorned boat and accompanied by a small flotilla of fishing boats.  It's a festival complete with night-time fireworks!  Go to http://www.youtube.com/ and check out the first part of this year's procession at "Virgen del Carmen Coronada" -Cadiz 2012 -Salida- by mangla.avi


Cadiz, population around 130,000, is about 150 kilometers south of Sevilla and surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean.  You can check the city out at:

The city has a long and colourful history.  It was founded by Phoenicians around 1100 BC.  Hannibal lives there for awhile.  Julius Caesar held public office for the first time there.  Christopher Columbus set out on his second voyage of discovery from there.  Cadiz became the capital of "New World Trade" during the late 1700s, thanks to Columbus, and evidence of all that gold and silver from the Americas is still evident in Cadiz Cathedral (and on the statue of la Virgen del Carmen).


The Old City looks Moorish.  You will find the Torre Tavira and Torre de Poniente, 150 foot high watch towers from where ship owners used to watch for their fleets.  Close to 130 such watch towers still exist in the city.  There is a delightful "camera obscura" up each of these towers, and for about 5 Euros, you can enjoy an amazing birds eye view of the City and bay.


After the excitement of the festival in Cadiz, I decided to end my week 10 kilometers north of Cadiz at El Puerto de Santa Maria.  Yes, Santa Maria as in the name of Christopher Columbus's ship the Santa Maria.  There is a square in the centre of this city (population 85,000) named for old Christopher ... in that part of the world, he was known as Cristobal Colon ... because he once lived in a house in that neighbourhood.


El Puerto de Santa Maria is a little quieter ... and I heard it had fabulous marisco bars (tapas bars specializing in seafood tapas)!  You can check it out at:

Until next time ... tejer feliz!

Friday, July 13, 2012

Week 1 -- Seductive Sevilla

When I posted last Friday, I was preparing to depart for Sevillla (in reality, the public library ... remember, this trip is only in my mind!).  What a great city to explore!  One travel guide had the following to say:
Feel the steamy, passionate embrace of Seville for the first time and you'll know that you're somewhere unforgettable.  This is the home of the soul-ripping sound of flamenco, the sombre and spectacular Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions, the glory and gore of bullfighting, and the jolly relief of Feria de Abril (April Festival).  Seville is where highly strung Carmen rolled cigars on her thighs and loved a bullfighter, it's where Don Juan worked his mojo in times long gone, and it's where Cervantes and Columbus knocked back glasses of sherry.  Shrouded in its pungent cloak of orange blossoms and dressed in art and culture, Seville is spellbinding.
For a quick overview of this spellbinding city - and a bit of Spanish music to set the mood - check out "Jose Manual Soto - Cuando Vuelva a Sevilla en Primavera" on www.youtube.com .

Sevilla is in Andalusia, the Southeastern corner of Spain.  Andalusia contains 8 smaller provinces, 5 of which border on either the Atlantic or Mediterranean.  The city of Sevilla is inland with an overall elevation of 30 meters, and straddling the Guadalquivir river.  Its population is around 700,000 - one might say it's a fair-sized city.  The Sevilla airport is located 7 km east of the city centre with bus service in every half hour.  I see the bus trip costs about 2.5 Euros  Since I'm exploring Sevilla only in my imagination, my travel expenses are very minimal!  Another good thing about exploring Sevilla only in my imagination is avoiding the real discomfort of Sevilla's 100 degree Fahrenheit summer heat! 

I decided to stay at a PARADOR, a government-run hotel.  These are all over Spain, and can be historic Arab fortresses, castles, palaces, or even Christian monasteries or convents.  You can check out "my" Parador, Posada del Lucero, here:


You can read about it in English - check out the language button top right.  The hotel itself is intriguing, and its location is perfect for further city exploration.  HOWEVER, I arrived during siesta hours, so the first order of business was a wee rest before tapeando, going out for tapas.  There are Tascas, bars specializing in tapas, aplenty, and y'all know I'm pretty adventurous when it comes to trying new foods!  I discovered gazpacho is a popular menu item.  It is said that "del gazpacho no hay empacho" (gazpacho doesn't make an upset stomach), and this cold tomato soup is recommended to be very refreshing in the hot summer.  You can see the recipe and preparation of traditional Andalucian Gazpacho by checking out "Gastronomia Sevillana" on www.youtube.com .  All I can say is - Y U C K !!!  I am not a fan of cold tomatoes in ANY country!  But there were plenty of other yummy tapas offerings to compensate.

Day 2, I explored Sevilla's city centre, looking for una tienda que vende lana y agujas de tejer (a shop that sells wool and knitting needles).  After all, this vacation (in my mind) is BASED ON knitting!

Spanish Sock #1 - heel turned.


Spanish Sock #1 - foot completed.
 As you can see, I was successful in my quest for knitting supplies.  There is a fabulous arts and crafts market, El Pastigo, in the city centre.  With that taken care of, it was on to more serious sightseeing.  Both travel guides that I consulted before departure suggested a minimum of 2 to 3 days to best experience Sevilla.  I don't think that's enough time! 

One of the first places I explored was the Alcazar, a 1300s palace built on a former Moorish fortress.  It is the official residence of Spanish royalty when they come to Sevilla.  You can take a look at the Alcazar here:

The website is in Spanish, but there are plenty of lovely photographs that don't need translation.  One might be interested to learn that the Alcazar was once home to a royal mistress so seductive that Spanish men lined up to drink her bath water!  (Another yuck!)

The second place I explored was the big cathedral - and I do not jest when I say BIG!  It is the largest and highest church in Spain, and apparently the world's third largest church.  It was the site of a Moorish mosque until mid-1200s, then reconsecrated Christian.  In early 1400s, the mosque/church was demolished - except for the minaret and outer courtyard - and Catholic Spaniards set out to "build a church so large that we shall be held to be insane"!  (They succeeded very nicely!)  You can check it out here:

The altarpiece, or retablo, in the main chapel is the largest in all of Christiandom.  There is a monument to Christopher Columbus on the South side, but apparently some controversy over whether the bones interred there belong to old Christopher himself.  There is an interesting painting of Saint Anthony on the North side.  It was painted in mid-1600s, cut out and stolen in the late 1800s, then eventually found in New York City and returned to the Cathedral in Sevilla.  (Perhaps Saint Anthony wanted to go walk about?)  One can be more than just a tourist in the cathedral - one can actually participate in a worship service in the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) - so long as you are not wearing shorts or a sleeveless top (I suppose the 13th century dead in the tombs along the sides of this chapel would disapprove!).  I took a little time there with my rosary.

The Giralda is the original Moorish minaret.  The Christian belfry and church bells were added late 1500s.  The tower stands over 320 feet high, and one can climb up two-thirds of that for a bird's-eye view of the city. 

That pretty much ate up my second day, and there was still so much to see and do, including a visit to inner city  Parque Maria Luisa to feed the doves, a visit to the Museo Arqueologico to check out artifacts from Phoenician to medieval periods, an evening out at the Tablaos or flamenco clubs, a horse-drawn carriage tour around the city and a guided walking tour (www.sevillawalkingtours.com ), and an evening river cruise.  I debated on taking in a bullfight, but decided to give that bloody sport a pass (that pleased my vegetarian daughter, I'm sure)!  There was still shopping to do -- who can visit Spain without checking out the beautiful trajes de flamenca (polka-dot flamenco dresses) or some of those amazing Yemas de Santa Teresa (Saint Teresa pastries)?  It was all rather overwhelming, so I decided instead to retreat to an early-1400s monastery located about 2.5 kilometers from the city in a 40-hectare forest.  My room in the guest house was perfect for relaxing with my knitting!  You can check it out at:



Spanish Sock #1 - completed.
Next - the second sock.

The mountain views there are spectacular, and it's cooler than in the city, so I might just stay there a few more days. 

So until next Friday, feliz sonando y circulares (happy dreaming and knitting)!

Friday, July 6, 2012

Leaving Today On My Innovative European Vacation


I need a vacation!  Can't AFFORD to travel out of town (never mind out of the country), but I REALLY need a vacation!  These were my thoughts a couple of weeks ago.  Whilst moping over this fact, I happened to notice THIS (left) book on my shelf of knitting books (yes, I have an entire shelf of knitting books ... plus A FEW MORE stashed in a box ...).  I remember being quite enthralled with this book (and the sock patterns in it) when I bought it a year or so ago.  I liked the idea that hand-knit socks are quite universal.  I also wondered what it would be like to actually VISIT each of the locations mentioned in the book.

Well!  The need for a vacation and the idea of travelling to locations mentioned in "Around the World in Knitted Socks" collided in my mind, and within 24 hours, I was mentally listing all the ways I could explore, taste, listen to, and generally experience travelling around the world without leaving home.  This is, after all, the age of the Internetz and global trade.  I can see places and events via Youtube!  I can download and hear music on my Ipod!  I can buy and taste imported wines!  I can read about all sorts thanks to my local public library! 

I set Friday July 6 as my departure date.  I chose that date because I work Monday to Thursday.  No, let me re-phrase that ... I get paid to work Monday to Thursday, but I can usually find plenty of things to do at my office on Fridays.  I am therefore choosing to devote Fridays to a VACATION IN MY MIND ... and y'all are invited to travel along with me!

So, I'm sure you are asking (now that you have absorbed that whole VACATION IN MY MIND thing ... remember, I DID say it was going to be an INNOVATIVE vacation!), exactly where are we travelling TO? 
 I made a list of potential locations (and sock patterns) from "Around the World in Knitted Socks" and decided to start in Spain, then travel on into France.

See that faint white jet stream in the sky?
That's ME ... Friday morning, July 6th,
leaving on a jet plane ... in my mind!

If you're looking for me, I'll be in Spain the public library!  I'll be arriving in Sevilla an air-conditioned corner on the second floor about 10:30 am.
 I'll be finishing these Bamboo sockettes ...
 ... then brushing up on my Spanish.  ¿Me puede dar instrucciones a un almacĂ©n que vende lana y agujas de tejer?  I need some black wool to start these Spanish socks:

 I think the cathedral (on the right hand page on "Around the World in Knitted Socks" in the above photo) is located in Sevilla, so that's one of the local sights I intend to check out.  No doubt I will also look for something typically local to eat ... ¿Puede recomendarme un bar de tapas buenas? 

Then I will have to start planning my route through Spain to France.  So until next Friday ...
¡Nos vemos luego!  Mantener tejer feliz!